This is your last opportunity.
There is no going back after this.
The narrative comes to an end when you finish reading this article on lithium batteries.
You return to your RV and adopt whatever worldview you want.
I’ll demonstrate exactly how far down the rabbit hole you may go if you continue reading this post and remain in Wonderland.
Yes, I blatantly plagiarized The Matrix’s blue pill/red pill plot (thanks, Morpheus).
The fact is that once you understand the benefits of lithium batteries, you’ll start to make sarcastic comments about lead-acid batteries and eventually you’ll simply start being disrespectful to them outright.
- Sometimes I’ll link to an affiliate product just to save you the trouble of internet purchasing or because I believe it’s the best thing ever. I could get a little compensation if you click the link and make a purchase, but there is no additional cost to you. (Thanks for assisting me in avoiding living under a bridge.) You may read my open letter explaining how this website generates money so you can read this amazing free stuff for more details, or you can read the site’s privacy policy.Have you looked at my suggested lists of RV membership organizations or RV accessories while I’m shamelessly selling and peddling?
Um … Do You Have Batteries?
(Read this two-minute lesson on RV batteries and power if you’re new to RVing. Otherwise, go on.)
Every RV has a 12-volt direct current (12VDC) and a 120-volt alternating current (AC) electrical system (12VAC).
Small appliances like fans and lights operate on 12VDC.
Larger equipment like your air conditioner and microwave operate on 120VAC.
By hooking into shore power at an established campsite or home, you may get 120VAC electricity.
House batteries aboard provide 12VDC electricity.
Your RV can link the two systems, at least in part.
- Almost all RVs contain a converter that transforms shore power into 12VDC electricity so you may plug in and use minor appliances while charging your battery. Please go here to read our comprehensive guide to RV converters.
- To power your bigger appliances, some RVs contain an inverter that converts 12VDC battery power to 120VAC electricity. Please go here to read our comprehensive guide to RV inverters.
Whether they are flooded, AGM, gel, or another variety, almost all RV batteries purchased from OEMs and dealers are lead-acid batteries.
- You’re probably viewing this article on a spam website if you’re reading it elsewhere other than Ask The RV Engineer since it was illegally “scraped” from another website. So, please, take caution! Do not divulge any confidential information, and return to www.askthervengineer.com to contact us!
Leave Lead-Acid Batteries Behind
Let’s say goodbye to the veteran: the lead-acid battery, before we throw the red carpet for lithium batteries.
The well-known 12-volt lead-acid battery had become the battery of choice for the automobile and recreational vehicle sectors by the 1950s.
It hasn’t altered all that much since then.
It’s a straightforward process: An aqueous sulfuric acid solution is poured over two plates (the cathode and the anode) (electrolyte).
The plates are kept apart by a separator plate.
A chemical reaction causes electrons to travel between the two, and presto, electricity.
See our Ultimate Guide to Your RV Batteries for additional details.
In essence, this method is still used in batteries today.
Twenty years later, in the 1970s, the market was overtaken by more sophisticated construction types like AGM and gel batteries, but the underlying technology remains unchanging.
The majority of RVs still come with these 12-volt lead-acid batteries today.
Regular improvements include:
- Conversion from flooded/wet batteries to sealed/valve-regulated architecture (e.g., AGM).
- Buy deep-cycle batteries for long discharges and more useful capacity, which have robust lead plates.
- Changing to 6V batteries with a 12V system rating that are heavy-duty and long-lasting.
These upgrades are all beneficial and cost-effective.
However, lithium batteries could soon reduce them to mere footnotes.
What’s Up With All the Fuss About Lithium Batteries?
You must comprehend the one MAJOR drawback of lead-acid batteries in order to comprehend the attractiveness of lithium batteries for RVs.
The whole capacity of a lead-acid battery cannot be discharged.
Even the greatest deep-cycle RV batteries shouldn’t be depleted more than 50% to 60% of their capacity.
Beyond that, calamity reigns as sulfates develop, plates fracture, mats flake, and electrolytes freeze.
Full battery discharges significantly reduce battery life and may potentially permanently damage a battery.
Because of this, your car’s starting battery often dies a few months after you turned on your headlights all night.
Read this in-depth article to learn more about the state of charge of lead-acid batteries.
You must comprehend the one MAJOR drawback of lead-acid batteries in order to comprehend the attractiveness of lithium batteries for RVs.
The whole capacity of a lead-acid battery cannot be discharged.
Even the greatest deep-cycle RV batteries shouldn’t be depleted more than 50% to 60% of their capacity.
Beyond that, calamity reigns as sulfates develop, plates fracture, mats flake, and electrolytes freeze.
Full battery discharges significantly reduce battery life and may potentially permanently damage a battery.
Because of this, your car’s starting battery often dies a few months after you turned on your headlights all night.
Read this in-depth article to learn more about the state of charge of lead-acid batteries.
Lithium batteries, however, may be routinely and safely fully depleted.
Lithium batteries have a discharge rate range of 0 to 20 percent.
In essence, you receive three times (3x) as much usable power compared to a hybrid marine/RV battery and twice (2x) as much useful power compared to a real deep-cycle battery!
And LiFePO4 batteries of superior grade drain at a steady voltage.
As a result, the supply voltage remains constant throughout the cycle.
No more fading illumination!
In fact, I’m such a fan that I made this list of advantages of lithium batteries.
Lithium batteries have a discharge rate range of 0 to 20 percent.
In essence, you receive three times (3x) as much usable power compared to a hybrid marine/RV battery and twice (2x) as much useful power compared to a real deep-cycle battery!
And LiFePO4 batteries of superior grade drain at a steady voltage.
As a result, the supply voltage remains constant throughout the cycle.
No more fading illumination!
In fact, I’m such a fan that I made this list of advantages of lithium batteries.
Lithium Batteries Provide Several Advantages For RVs.
Here are just a few of the numerous advantages of switching your RV over to lithium batteries!
- May be safely discharged to 0-20% of its maximum capacity.
- Good for 3,000–5,000 lifecycles (five to five times as many as a lead-acid battery!)
- May endure for more than ten years! Manufacturers may even provide guarantees that are longer than the lead-acid battery industry standard of ten years.
- Only weighs a third as much as a similar lead-acid battery.
- There is no routine water replenishment (so no need to go hunting for distilled water).
- While charging or discharging, no explosive or flammable emissions.
- May be used and stored within an RV securely.
- Voltage is constant during the discharge cycle.
- Without overheating, quickly and effectively recharged. very quick charging rate
- About 100 percent recyclable
- Don’t include metals that are harmful to the environment.
- Unlike lead-acid batteries, terminals don’t rust!
Am I a believer, as you can tell?
The more useable power provided by lithium batteries has previously been mentioned as a key advantage.
But I’d also want to draw attention to charging rate. Lithium batteries can receive a charge much, much quicker than lead-acid batteries because they have far lower internal resistance.
In contrast, a lead-acid battery charges fast up to 70–80 percent before gradually declining to 100 percent. With LFP batteries, none of that time was wasted!
How Do Lithium and Lead-Acid RV Batteries Differ From One Another?
You need to understand that lithium batteries are a whole different chemisty.
- Four cells with 3.2 volts each make up a 12V LFP battery, which produces roughly 12.8 volts overall.
- Instead of the typical 3-stage bulk-absorption-float charge plan for a lead-acid battery, the battery is charged using a Constant Current Constant Voltage (CCCV) profile.
- LiFePO4 batteries should only be charged between 50 and 60 percent while not in use. Therefore, no trickle charger is needed throughout the winter. How wonderful is that?
If you have any knowledge about lead-acid batteries, you are aware that all of these figures, details, and specifications are completely different.
So, absolutely, there is a learning curve with lithium batteries.
However, the advantages make it worthwhile.
Reminder: To convert your RV to lithium batteries, you’ll need a lithium-compatible converter and (if existent) solar charge controller! For further details, see this article’s final section.
Lithium Batteries Don’t Explode, Right?
Unfortunately, early adoption in the RV sector was put on hold by a few well-publicized incidents of consumer computers or cellphones catching fire because of their lithium batteries.
Some grammatical housekeeping: “Lithium” batteries come in a variety of chemistries.
Any mention of a lithium battery in the context of an RV refers to lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries, sometimes referred to as LFP batteries.
A specific kind of lithium-ion battery is LiFePO4.
But there are a lot more than that!
Lithium-ion (li-ion) batteries used in consumer gadgets and RV lithium house batteries are NOT the same.
Your mobile phone’s lithium batteries have substantially greater energy densities and quicker discharge rates.
They are ideal for the frequent misuse of tablets and smartphones.
But sure, a smartphone battery is flammable thanks to the chemistry of cobalt, nickel, manganese, and silicon.
They could experience uncontrollably high temperatures, which raises the possibility of explosive ignition.
Other lithium-ion chemistries, such as lithium-nickel-cobalt-aluminum oxide, are also available.
However, we don’t need to discuss them now.
An RV lithium battery’s chemistry is just not susceptible to the combustion and runaway heat problems that smaller smartphone batteries experience.
Lithium is a reactive metal, sure.
A battery might catch fire or explode if the battery casing ever sustained significant physical damage.
Although there is a real danger here, it is quite small.
In addition, all mentioned LFP batteries must be marketed with a built-in Battery Management System (BMS) to avoid overcharging and other potentially harmful situations.
In order to manage every element of charging and discharging, the BMS functions as a “brain.”
Are Lithium Batteries Still Effective in the Winter?
This half-myth is untrue.
It is accurate to say that RV lithium batteries cannot be charged in below-freezing conditions.
In actuality, a temperature of around 65 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal for charging.
However, relatively few campers really do so on a regular basis.
So the majority of recreational RVers are unaffected by this restriction.
Now, you have two choices if you do find yourself in icy circumstances.
1. Control the temperature in the area surrounding the batteries.
RVers often install lithium batteries within the motorhome itself in this situation.
Lithium batteries don’t release explosive gases when overcharged like lead-acid batteries do.
2. Control the battery’s internal temperature.
A battery may be heated using a variety of aftermarket products, including battery box blankets and battery box pads.
But unless you’re plugged in, the battery will start to deplete as it tries to stay warm.
Fun fact: Lead-acid batteries may freeze at low temperatures, but they can also be used in cold conditions.
In reality, a lead-acid battery freezes faster the more depleted it is.
What Are The Prices Of RV Lithium Batteries?
If you’re wondering why not all RVs have these fantastic batteries, it’s because RV manufacturers are unethical scumbags.
… The whole reality, though, is a little more nuanced.
Therefore, why should you pay for a basic function that you don’t need?
It is true that LFP batteries are more expensive up front than triple A batteries that you keep in your desk.
That costs around 2.5–3 times as much as an equivalent AGM lead-acid battery.
Definitely not pocket change!
Now let’s examine the whole cost of the lifespan.
A lithium battery can withstand a large number of charge/discharge cycles.
According to Renogy, their 100Ah 12V smart lithium iron phosphate battery will operate at an efficiency of roughly 80% for about 4,000 cycles (which is still really excellent!).
Some batteries have 5,000 cycle ratings!
Deep-cycle lead-acid batteries have a lifetime that varies between 400 and 1,500 cycles, with better-built models having a longer lifespan.
Compared to lead-acid batteries, lithium batteries may live up to ten times longer! You may anticipate a 4-5 times longer longevity when comparing premium lead-acid batteries to name-brand LFP batteries, yet the battery only costs 2-3 times as much!
As a result, a lithium battery has a substantially lower lifespan cost than a lead-acid battery.
In fact, it’s likely that your lithium battery will outlast your camper! Some producers make a 30-year lifetime claim.
Your batteries might be mentioned in your final will and testament.
Yes, I detest paying for campgrounds as well.
I believe you need to take into account joining a cheap RV camping club if you go more than twice each year.
In 1-3 uses, the majority of these subscriptions will pay for themselves! For boondockers and dry campers as well as part-time and full-time RVers, these groups are very helpful.
Escapees RV Club
Extensive network of camping discounts, mail-forwarding services, social organizations and events, and education about RVs
Free dry camping is available in wineries, museums, farms, and golf courses.
Passport America
The first 50% off camping club with more than 1,200 places at cheap prices!
Good Sam
Largest RV network; savings on camping, gasoline, and propane; insurance; and RV education
Happy Camper Club
Affordable, no-frills 50% off camping membership with worldwide access and no charge for ebooks
Boondockers Welcome
RV parking on private property is free for the night | (owned by Harvest Hosts)
How Can I Upgrade My RV’s System to Accept Lithium Batteries?
Although LiFePO4 batteries for RVs have been available for a while, the complexity of your RV’s electrical system has deterred many RV owners.
Unfortunately, you cannot just swap out your old lead-acid batteries with lithium ones in 95% of RVs.
Here is a guide on installing lithium-ion batteries in your RV.
Step 1: Swap Out The Converter.
You’ll need to replace the converter charger first since LFP batteries are typically charged at 14.0 to 14.6 volts rather than 13.2 to 13.6 volts like a lead-acid battery.
A converter that works with LiFePO4 batteries is required.
- Lithium-compatible converters are produced by WFCO and Progressive Dynamics.
- Magnum and Xantrex produce even finer devices, which are often sold along with an inverter/charger.
Either a specialized equipment or a converter that can charge both battery chemistries are available.
More people use these dual-purpose converters.
It just requires the flick of a switch.
What happens, incidentally, if you don’t replace your converter?
However, the majority of LFP battery BMSs will guard against any significant harm.
A standard charger can only fully charge a lithium battery to 70–80 percent of its capacity, so even if you don’t, you’re wasting your time as you can’t utilize the whole amount of additional capacity you purchased.
Step 2: Replacing the “Shortstop” Breaker
A Type 1 “shortstop”-style inline breaker safeguards your primary battery power line (auto reset thermal cycling).
A manually resettable circuit breaker (such as the Bussmann CB 185) with a rating of 120 percent of the load current should be used to replace the inline breaker.
You would rapidly burn up the original circuit breaker since LFP batteries often charge much quickly than lead-acid batteries.
Of course, you’ll also need to change the cables and terminals if the gauge on your battery cables is too tiny to properly handle a larger current.
Step 3: Review The Battery Monitor And/Or Solar Charge Controller
You must make sure your equipment’s built-in solar charge controller and/or battery monitor are compatible with lithium batteries.
They’ll likely need to be set to a different mode as well.
Step 4: Review And Rewire As Necessary
Finally, you need to check all of your 12V system’s impacted components.
Get a diagram of the 12V wiring in your vehicle and check that no wires are being overloaded.
Never change any circuit breakers or fuses before being completely aware of the consequences!
The following currents may typically be carried by AWG wires at 12V nominal:
- 7 amps for 18AWG
- 10 amps for 16AWG
- 15 amps at 14 AWG
- 20 amps at 12 AWG.
- 30 amps at 10 AWG
No wire or cable should have a breaker or fuse that can handle more current than it can carry.
Long runs or extreme heat conditions may also lower wire current capacity.
To be honest however, if this is news to you then maybe you should upgrade your RV battery system with the help of an expert.
Electricity is very risky.
Over a third of all RV fires are caused by electrical shorts.
Try to be safe!
